Im working on a 1994 37m Reich       when i got the truck it was full of hard concrete and was told it just stoped pummping.   I cleaned all the hard concrete out and got it stroking , but i have no volume control and when i stop the pump  the pumping cylinders go to the end of the stroke.  I think its just a dirty shuttle valve  but not sure what one it is.  any help or a repair manual would be great      thank

Ok so i dont know a whole lot about Reich, but it sounds like you are on the right track. if the switching valve is a little bit sticky you might be able to take it off and clean it a little bit. i had an old Morgen with a similar problem, couldnt get much volume and wasnt building a lot of pressure. my problem turned out to be two different things. first problem was the swash plate on the main hydraulic pump was stuck or sticking so i was dumping most of the pump volume back to the hyd. tank. Second problem was a small piece of metal jammed in the relief valve, so that fixed the pressure problem. it was just a coincidence that they happened at the same time. as we were working to figure out what was wrong, i noticed kind of a grey paste that had settled on the bottom of some of the hyd. parts we were taking apart and checking. what is grey paste you ask? well its portland, and sand, and god knows what else.

Even tho we didnt have a seal that was showing signs of leaking badly, everytime the pump strokes it takes in a little bit of crap from the water box, and after years and years of taking in just a tiny amount, it turns into a big amount. even when you dump your water box everyday and make sure it is nice and clean you get junk in your oil.

So why am i telling you all this? My point is this, factory hyd filters get down to about 10 to 15 microns and thats not small enough to catch all the junk in your system. after you fix your problem and get your pump running again, you should consider a stand alone hyd filter cart with a 5 micron filter. when you get back to the shop at the end of the day just plug it in to your tank and let it run all night. 

Our old Morgen used to have several "funny" hyd issues after several years of service. we always relied on the factory filters to clean the oil, but after a conversation with a local hyd shop i quickly changed my mind. we built our own hydraulic filter cart and everytime the pump came into the shop we hooked up the cart and let it run. after about a month the hyd. gremlins went away. now it pumps just as well as our newer model.

im assuming that your pump is hydraulic signal to shift? has it sat for some time without being used? im assuming the pump cyls should stop as soon as you hit the switch, i would locate the swiching valve and check it first. secondly i would recommend taking a sample of your hyd oil and sending it in for testing, a good test cost about 35-40 bucks, you wouldnt believe the crap that settles out of the oil when they sit for a long time. with lots of garbage floating around in your oil its only a matter of time before things just start to act "funny".

just my 2 cents, hope it helps :)

thank you     we have cleaned all the valves     now look at the pumps

when i stop pumping it changes direction under pressure    not just drift to the end of the stroke

Would that pump have a sensing valve coming out of the pump block and another one at the top. If not it might have a spool valve thats is lightly scuffed but the smallest scuff would cause a sticky valve and cause the stroke to finish and switch over. I had that exact problem on my concord it started out with only going half of the stroke to then going the full stroke and switch over but it would only change over when the pressure side valve was pumping so we changed the pressure side spool and it stopped the problem.

On top of the brain there is a cartridge it looks like a nut that cartridge is supposed to be a couple inches long it is probably broke we had the same issues with a 44 meter reich and the same with a 39 meter junk star

CP - I think you are so correct about that 5 micron filter.  if i had a pump, filtering the oil 4-6 hours with 5 micron filter would be part of my weekly. Great reply BTW 

CP: good comment, i would like to add that most dirt gets into the system through worn out chevrons at the diff cylinder or worn shaft seals on the agitator motor. I recommend changing those chevrons, at a regular interval. I did mine every year. We get our oil samples through our local CAT dealer, and they run $12.00 a sample and you get it back within a day or two. I consider that cheap insurance.

here are a few pics      there are 2 manual/12volt valves that can turn and lock down   one on the back and one on the front  What should each one do? should they be in or out?     then there is a valve on the top  what should it do?     there is 2 shut off valves     one to the rear S-tube switch ram and one loops back to a drive cylinder    should they be open or closed?