Getting ready to replace rams in pump cylinder, will try posting picture of cylinder. If Im unsuccessful, heres the question- cylinder is not polished smooth as a engine cylinder would be, but has grooving patterned complete length, not real rough put can be seen and felt. are they made this way and if it were smooth is would be worn out or is this excessive wear?

Animal,

My guess is that you run a Schwing. When you run your hand down the length of the cylinder does it feel like the surface has 'waves' or is there gouging up and down? 

I dont think it matters on the brand Bob, but sounds like sand scored up the cylinders, either the barrels have gotten larger from wear or the mud cups should have been changed sooner.

Is there a way for you to grease the mud cups daily? If so you might be able to get some more life out of the cylinders.

I dont know if any one has tried this but maybe you could drill and tap a zirc fitting at the top end of the stroke in the middle of the mud cup. Cifa has this on pumps and their mud cups are greaseable. I dont change mud cups nearly as often as I did with brand S.

Of course I do have a unit that I need to change barrels out on but we are being very careful parking it on the top of the cylinder and cleaning it greasing it every useage until the economy picks up enough to pay for a new set of barrels.(very expensive). Depending on the brand you are looking at 7-10k just in parts.

Yes Schwing 1200  waves.http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x212/concreteanimal/pumpcyl002.jpg

No, the brand is very important.

Schwing uses an induction hardening process to manufacture hardness into the interior of the cylinder. It is a tried and true solution to the problem of cylinder wear; the other is chrome.

Either the cylinders in question have had lots of concrete through them or the "heat/quench" temperature control was not quite right. Either way, those cylinders will be piston head eaters; and will only get worse as time goes by. If this is a newer, low yardage problem my bet is that Schwing will help you buy a new set. If this is a lots of yards problem then either you or whoever you bought the pump from got his money's worth.

Google 'induction hardening' and learn about the process; or go to ConForm pipe plant and watch them treat some placing line. It is very interesting.

Now this is a perfect case for;

"Why do I need Pump Magic?"

You would know exactly how many yards you got out of that set of cylinders/ no guessing.

In today's marketplace, you had better know how much it costs for you to pump your concrete.

Just trying to help. ;~)

if the cylinders are gouged, pitted, raked or worn at both ends. and if they are the heat treated ones not the chrome type, i have heard you can flip the barrels to extend the life. tapping in grease nipples is a great idea big P and alliance both have them.

sorry guys, i ment to say, if they are "not" gouged pitted ex..

Animal,

There is no sense in flopping the cyl's end to end. It won't help.

As for trying to drill oiler holes in hardened cylinders.... lots of luck ;~)

This is the question that Haunts us all .Change the cylinders or try to get more out of them .First off this is a good reminder to those who don't believe in washing out the water box daily.all of the little particulates, micro silicates that can gouge and wear those material cylinders prematurely .the simple task of washing down the water box every day and filling with new water does multi functions : keeps cylinders clean and free of those particulates ,keeps hydraulic cylinders cool for those in the hotter areas every time the rod goes down in clean water the water is a heat dispenser the dirtier the water the less it cools ,and it to also keeps hydraulic cylinder seals from going bad dragging grout into hydraulic system via the rod seals . sorry for going off of the main subject I always say if you can stop your finger nail running across the scratches and gouges you should replace them, if they are chrome it is possible to re-chrome them or polish them out.the key is to keep them clean .If you run into a problem please feel free to call me or email me .my info is the consultants area of this web site on the left side Scott

bob, i agree with you in this case.i looked at the picture after i replyed. i had heard this from a couple of mechanic, although i have not used this procedure myself.

Thanks for the replys. machine is 85 i purchased 18 months ago. totle yard on these cylinders- GOD ONLY KNOWS.  I have replaced rams once about 8 month ago. yes i flush waterbox after every job, only remember forgeting once.

Bob did you look at pictures?

Yes, just now. It is as I suspected; a heavy use set of induction hardened cylinders.

Not much that you can do except change piston heads when you have to. You do not need to change the piston heads for fear of damaging your cylinders. Run them until they present a problem for you and your customers. You can run a set a long time when not worried about cylinder wear.

The one drawback about that program is, if you think about it, the piston heads keep the chrome rods in the center of the bore. This supports one end of the chrome rod; the hydraulic cylinder head supports the other end. In the center is your support bushing and seal sets. (everything in this area costs money and is very important to the life of your machine) .......... so the proper long term thinker will - while it is slow, and winter, change the worn out stuff

If

you can afford to.

Keep your waterbox clean, every day - or a couple three times a day if needed.

Keep your water box empty when not pumping.

EVERY MORNING check your hydraulic tank for water by slowly opening the tank drain BEFORE you move your truck. If you get water, not just condensation, out of your tank CALL ONE OF OUR FREE MECHANICS.

Tonight........... forget about this stuff and pay attention to your family.

Merry Christmas ;~)